Manufacture of california type shoes



W. F. HERLIHY IIANUFACTURE 0F CALIFORNIA TYPE SHOES July 4, 1'950 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Aug. s, 1949 7:7 )if/leaky y @a @am g w. F. HERLIHY 2,514,057

MANUFACTURE op CALIFORNIA TYPE snol-:s

July 4, 1950 2 sheets-sheet z Filed Aug. 9, 1949 Patented July 4, 1950 UNITED STATES PATENT GFFICE 2,514,057 MANUFACTURE OF CALIFORNIA TYPE SHCES wiuiam Francis nenihy, 1mw=u, 1uaa. Application August 9, 1949, Serial No. 109,365

6 Claims. l

This invention pertains to the manufacture of footwear particularly to shoes f the so'called California or force lasted type and relates more especially to a novel method of makingvsuch shoes and to a stage product resultant from the practice of said method.

The more general method in use in the manufacture of such shoes involves the connection of the wrapper strip or platform cover all of the way around the lower margin of the upper by a sewed seam whose stitches pass through the several constituent layers of the upper (outer element, lining, doubler, etc.) and since this seam is substantially at the level of the last bottom it is diicult to use a pre-molded flanged counter or toe box of the usual kind. Thus in the major part of shoes of this kind the stiffening of the toe or quarter results from the use of a flangeless counter whose anchorage to the bottom structure is insecure, or use is made of a soft type of counter such that the shoe lacks the stiffness and shape-retaining characteristics customarily found in shoes of other types. Various expedients have been proposed for overcoming the above defects but most of these prior suggestions involve time-consuming, diflicult and expensive procedures or major changes in the shoe structure, and although some such prior procedures are in limited use, in particular in making the more expensive types of shoe or for special effects or unusual designs, the shoe trade in general has not been satisfied to adopt them. The principal object of the present invention is to provide a novel method of making California. or force lasted shoes such that the end portion of the shoe (toe or quarter) may have the stifiness and shape-retaining characteristics found in shoes of other types and by a novel procedure which does not unduly increase the cost or add to the difliculties of manufacture. A further object is to provide a novel method of making California or force lasted shoes whereby the toe and/or quarter portions may be provided with a toe box or counter, of substantially the same degree of stiffness as the pre-molded toe box or counter customarily employed in other kinds of shoe, and which is firmly-and securely anchored to the other parts. A further object is to provide, as a stage product in the manufacture of California or force lasted shoes, a shoe upper having one or both of its ends permanently stiiened and shaped and provided with a wrapper strip, in readiness to be united to a conventional sock lining by a seam which may extend all the Way around the shoe. Other `and further objects and advantages of the invention will be pointed out in the following more detailed description and by reference to the accompanying drawings wherein Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a shoe upper prepared in accordance with the present invention and ready for the attachment of the wrapper strip; i

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the quarter portion of the shoe of Fig. 1, before assembly with other parts, viewed from the rear or outside;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2, but showing the inside of the quarter;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a quarter stiifener or counter prior to molding;

Fig. 5 is a vertical section, to larger scale, showing the quarter with the counter assembled therewith prior to molding;

Fig. 6 is a diagrammatic front view showing the step of molding the quarter portion of the shoe upper;

Fig. 7 is a, vertical central section substantially on the line 1-1 of Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 is a. vertical section through the shoe upper substantially at the line 8-8 of Fig. 2, but

as it appears after molding and after the Wrapper strip has been attached;

Fig. 9 is a view of the rear part of the shoe upper, similar to Fig. 8, but showing the upper united to the sock lining;

Fig. 10 is a side elevation showing the completed shoe embodying the upper shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 1l is a fragmentary, vertical, longitudinal section illustrating the interior construction of the completed shoe at its heel end;

Fig. 12 is a plan view showing the vamp of the shoe of Fig. 1, before assembly with other parts; and

Fig. 13 is a plan view of a toe stiffener for use with the vamp of Fig. 12.

Referring to the drawings, the numeral I designates a shoe upper which may be of any desired material and pattern or style and which,

except as hereinafter specifically pointed out, may be of conventional construction. As illustrated, it comprises the quarter portion 2 and the vamp portion 3, these parts being united by seams S. As illustrated in Fig. 12, the vamp portion 3 is provided at its toe end with a lining element 4 united to the outer ply of the vamp by a seam 5, the lining element 4, as here illustrated,

' being otherwise free from the outer ply. thereby providing a pocket for the reception ofv a toe box blank 6 (Fig. 13). If the toe portion of the shoe is not to be stiflened in accordance with the novel method herein disclosed, then the toe end of the vamp may be of any conventional construction and stiffened or not in accordance with conventional procedures.

The quarter 2 (Figs. 2 and 3) comprises a. blank including an outer ply which may be of leather, cloth or the like, the outer ply being here shown as provided with an external stay piece 8. As illustrated in Fig. 3 the upper edge of the quarter is folded in and sea-med, as shown at l, to provide a finish bead. Except as hereafter described, the quarter is of single thickness, but it is to be understood that it may comprise additional plies, for example it may have a complete lining. As here shown in Figs. 3 and 5, the quarter is provided With a lining 9 secured to the outer ply by a seam II) extending along the upper edge of the quarter lining. The lower edge of the quarter lining is free from the outer ply, thus providing a pocket II for the reception of the stilener or counter blank I2 (Figs. 4 and 5). This counter blank may be of any suitable material capable of being molded and of permanently retaining the shape imparted by molding pressure, but preferably is thinned down at its lower margin.

Assuming that the shoe upper is to be stiiened at both ends and that the upper, including the vamp and quarter, has been assembled and united, as shown in Fig. l, and that the toe box blank 6 and counter blank I2 have been provided, these stiifener elements are now inserted in the pockets at the toe and heel ends respectively of the upper. If the stiiener elements 6 and I2 are not of such character as inherently to become adhesive when subjected to the molding operation, they will be coated with adhesive before introducing them in the pockets in the upper. If

desired the inner faces of the pockets may also be adhesively coated before the stifeners are inserted. Desirably, the end portion which is to be stiffened, is next mulled or otherwise tempered to make its constituent parts amenable to molding treatment.

The end of the upper which is to be sti'ened is now subjected to molding pressure in a suitable molding machine, for example a machine such as is commonly used for molding shoe counters. This operation, as employed in molding the quarter portion is illustrated by way of example in Figs. 6 and 7, it being understood that if the toe end is to be stiffened according to the present invention, the toe end will be molded in a manner similar to the quarter. The quarter is shown in Figs. 6 and 7 as assembled with the center mold I3 of the molding machine and as embraced by the side molds I4 and I5. These molds are shaped appropriately to impart to that end of the shoe which is being molded substantially the iinal curved contour which it is desired to have in the completed shoe, it being understood, as above suggested, that the stiffener element is of such character as to retain this molded shape indefinitely.

While it has been suggested that the vamp and quarter will be united by the seams S prior to the molding of either end of the upper, it is contemplated that the molding may take place prior to the union of the vamp and quarter. Furthermore, if the shoe is to be of the open shank type the vamp and/or quarter may be molded independently as above suggested and will not subsequently be united by seams S or the equivalent, but will be independently anchored to the bottom structure of the shoe. It is thus contemplated, as within the scope of the present invention, to make the vamp and quarter portions independently in accordance with the present invention and that such parts may be made and molded and, whether or not united, further completed to the extent that they might be sold as stage products useful in the manufactureA of California type shoes.

Referring more particularly to the completion of the quarter portion of the upper (after the quarter portion has been given its final shape and contour by the molding operation as above described) a wrapper strip I6 (Fig. 8) of appropriate width and material is now stitched to the lower marginal portion of the molded quarter by a seam whose stitches II pass through all of the constituent plies of the molded quarter. This operation maybe carried out by the use of any suitable type of sewing machine. In spite of the pre-molding of the entire quarter, a flat bed machine may be used for this purpose without particular diiiculty.

If the upper has been molded at both ends and if the quarter and vamp have been united by the seams S, the wrapper i8 may extend continuously around the entire periphery of the shoe upper, except that usually the ends of the wrapper will be overlapped at approximately the location of the seam S at the inner side of the shoe. If the quarter and vamp are made as separate entities, each will be provided with its own independent wrapper strip, the ends of each wrapper strip being locatedv approximately at the rear and forward ends of the parts 3 and 2 respectively.

Having thus attached the wrapper strip or strips, the sock lining I8 (Fig. 9) is now assembled with the upp'er or with one or the other part of the upper as above described, its marginal portion is turned downwardly, and said marginal portion is united by a seam comprising stitches I9 which pass through all of the constituent plies of the upper, including the stiffener element at its molded end or ends. If the quarter and vamp are made as separate elements and not united by the seams S, then the sock lining forms the only connection between the parts 2 and 3 before the cushion and/or outer sole is applied.

A cushion sole or platform element 20 (Fig. ll) is now usually secured in customary manner by adhesive or otherwise to the under surface of the sock lining, and the lower margin I6a of the wrapper strip I6 is turned down beneath the platform or cushion and adhesively secured to the latter. If a heel wedge is to be used, such a wedge 2| (Fig. 1l) is now put in place and adhesively united to the cushion element 20, the wedge here shown having an edge cover 22. In some types of shoes the wrapper strip I6 is not turned in directly below the cushion element 20 but is of such dimensions, at the heel end of the shoe, that it may be turned in beneath the heel wedge 2|, concealing the side edges of the latter. After the parts have been assembled and united, as above suggested, an outer sole 23 is assembled with the other parts and attached in conventional manner.

While as above suggested, and as illustrated in the drawings, the wrapper strip is attached to the molded end portion of the shoe by a seam which is above and separated from the seam which unites the sock. lining to the upper, it is contemplated that both wrapper and sock lining may be united simultaneously to the molded end portion of the shoe by the same seam. It is further contemplated that the sock lining may be attached to the molded upper prior to the attachment of the wrapper, if for any reason this should be desirable.

By the above procedure it is possible to provide a California type shoe having a permanently stii and properly shaped end portion wherein the stiiener element is firmly and securely united to the other parts, thus providing a California type shoe which has substantially the same external appearance as a shoe made by other methods and wherein the stiiened end portion of the upper is anchored just as rmly in place to the bottom structure as in other forms of shoe.

While one desirable procedure has been suggested and illustrated by way of example, it is to be understood that the invention is broadly inclusive of any and al1 modications and variations in the several steps and order of steps within the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. That method of making shoes of the Cali-1 fornia or force lasted type which comprises as steps providing an upper including a quarter lining and an outer ply at the quarter portion, providing a moldable counterl blank, introducing the counter blank between the quarter lining and the outer ply of the quarter, die molding the quarter portion of the upper, together with the counter blank, by means of appropriately shaped dies to the shape of the rear end of the shoe to be made, and, after molding, stitching a wrapper strip to the lower marginal portion of the upper, the stitches of the seam which unites the wrapper and upper passing through the entire thickness of the molded quarter portion.

2. That method of making shoes of the California or force lasted type which comprises as steps providing an upper including a quarter 1inproviding a wrapper strip, and stitching the wrapper strip to the marginal portion of the molded quarter, the stitches which unite the parts passing through the quarter lining and counter.

ing and an outer ply at the quarter portion, providing a moldable counter blank, introducing the counter blank between the quarter lining and the outer ply of the quarter, adhesively bonding the quarter portion of the upper to the counter blank while molding them between appropriately shaped dies to the shape of the rear end of the shoe to be made, and, after molding, stitching a wrapper strip and a sock lining to the lower marginal portion of the upper, the stitches which unite said parts passing through all of the constituent plies of the molded quarter portion.

3. 'Ihat method of making shoes of the California or force lasted type which comprises as steps providing an upper having a quarter lining united by stitches at its upper edge to the outer -ply of the upper at the quarter portion of the latter but free at its lower edge thereby providing an open pocket, providing a die moldable counter blank, by the use of appropriately shaped dies, introducing the counter blank into said pocket, die molding the quarter portion of the upper by the use of appropriately shaped dies while concomitantly adhesively bonding together its several constituent parts thereby to impart to the quarter portion substantially the iinal shape of the rear end-of the shoe which is to be made,

4. That method of making shoes of the California or force lasted type which comprises as steps providing an upper having a pocket at one end for the reception of a stiening element, providing a moldable stiffening blank, inserting the blank in the pocket, die molding that end of the upper including the stiil'ening blank, by the use of appropriately shaped dies substantially to the shape which said end is to have in the completed shoe, and after the molding is completed, stitching a wrapper strip and sock lining to the lower margin of the upper, the stitches which unite said parts passing through the pocket-forming plies and the stiiening element.

5. That method of making shoes of the California or force lasted type which comprises as steps providing an upper having plies providing a pocket at its toe end for the reception of a toe box, providing a moldable toe box blank, inserting the toe-box blank within said pocket, adhesively bonding the pocket-forming plies and toe box blank while die molding the toe portion of the upper, including the toe box blank, substantially to the shape of the toe portion of the shoe to be made by the use of appropriately shaped dies, and after molding, stitching a wrapper strip to the lower margin of the upper, the stitches which unite the parts passing through the pocketforining plies and through the tce box blank.

6. That method of making shoes of the California or forced lasted type which comprises the steps of providing a composite quarter blank oi predetermined appropriate contour |and including plies of sheet material with adhesive interposed between them and adapted to secure said plies together, two of the plies being of a nature appropriate to constitute the exposed inner and outer surfaces respectively of said quarter, one of the constituent plies of the quarter being of moldable shape-retaining character capable of permanently holding a contour imparted thereto by molding pressure, tempering the quarter to make it moldably plastic, die molding the tempered quarter under pressure between appropriately shaped dies to impart substantially the exact curved contour of the quarter of the completed shoe which is to be made, and Iafter molding, stitching to the lower margin of the molded quarter a wrapper strip. the stitches which attach the `wrapper' strip passing through all of the constituent plies of thte molded quarter.

WILLIAM FRANCIS HERLIHY.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the Certicate of Correction Patent No. 2,514,057 y July 4, 1950 WILLIAM FRANCIS HERLIHY It is hereby certied that error appears in the printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correction as follows:

Column 5, line 57, strike out the Word die; lines 58 and 59, strike out the words and 'comma by the use of appropriately shaped des,; y

and that the said Letters Patent should be read as corrected above, so that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 10th day of October, A. D. 1950.

THOMAS F MURPHY,

Assistant Uommz'sszoner af Patente. 

